AHA, BHA, and PHA: which exfoliant suits your skin type?
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AHA, BHA, and PHA: which exfoliant suits your skin type?
Exfoliation is one of the most effective steps you can add to your routine. It removes dead skin cells, supports a more even texture, and helps active ingredients penetrate better. But which type of exfoliant is right for you? AHA, BHA, and PHA are all chemical exfoliants, but they each work differently and are suitable for different skin types. In this article, we'll clearly explain the differences.
In short:
• AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid) work on the skin's surface — ideal for dull skin, pigmentation, and fine lines
• BHAs (salicylic acid) penetrate pores — ideal for acne, blockages, and oily skin
• PHAs are the mildest variant — suitable for sensitive skin
• Start with a low concentration and build up slowly
• Check out our exfoliants at ASAP and Jan Marini
Contents
1. What is chemical exfoliation?
2. AHA: the surface exfoliant
3. BHA: deep into the pores
4. PHA: the mild variant
5. Which exfoliant suits your skin?
6. Products at Shopjemooi
7. Frequently asked questions
What is chemical exfoliation?
Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to break the bonds between dead skin cells. This makes those cells detach more easily, without the need for scrubbing. The result: a smoother, more even skin texture, fewer blockages, and better absorption of your serums and creams.
Unlike physical scrubs (with beads), chemical exfoliation works uniformly over the entire surface. This makes it gentler and more predictable — you risk fewer micro-damages.
Did you know? Jan Marini Bioglycolic Face Lotion contains a combination of glycolic acid (AHA), salicylic acid (BHA), and azelaic acid in one product. This triple combination addresses multiple skin problems simultaneously: texture, congestion, and pigmentation.
AHA: the surface exfoliant
AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. These are water-soluble acids that work on the surface of the skin. The most well-known forms are glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk). AHAs help to loosen dead skin cells, stimulate cell renewal, and can refine skin texture with consistent use.
Suitable for: dull skin, uneven texture, fine lines, pigment spots, dry skin (lactic acid is gentler and hydrates at the same time).
Please note: AHAs temporarily make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation. Therefore, always use SPF during the day if you have an AHA product in your routine.
BHA: deep into the pores
BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid. The most common form is salicylic acid. The difference with AHA is that BHA is oil-soluble — it can therefore penetrate the pores and address blockages from within. This makes BHA particularly suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.
Suitable for: acne-prone skin, enlarged pores, blackheads, excessive sebum production.
Extra benefit: salicylic acid also naturally has mild soothing properties, making it less irritating than some AHAs.
PHA: the mild variant
PHA stands for Poly Hydroxy Acid. Examples include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. PHAs have a larger molecular size than AHAs, meaning they penetrate more slowly and are less likely to cause irritation. They gently exfoliate and simultaneously have hydrating and antioxidant properties.
Suitable for: sensitive skin, reactive skin, skin that doesn't tolerate AHAs or BHAs well, exfoliation beginners.
Comfort Zone Skin Regimen Lx Night Renewal Cream contains gluconolactone — a PHA that gently exfoliates the skin at night while also hydrating it.
Which exfoliant suits your skin?
Dull skin, fine lines, pigmentation: choose AHA (glycolic acid). Start with a low concentration and use it two to three times a week.
Oily skin, acne, clogged pores: choose BHA (salicylic acid). It penetrates the pores and addresses blockages from within.
Sensitive skin, exfoliating for the first time: choose PHA. It is the mildest option and combines exfoliation with hydration.
Multiple skin problems simultaneously: a product with a combination of AHA and BHA can work broadly. Jan Marini Bioglycolic Face Lotion and ASAP Clear Complexion Gel both contain AHA/BHA combinations.
Products at Shopjemooi
ASAP Liquid Platinum
Liquid exfoliant with an AHA complex. Removes dead skin cells and promotes an even skin texture. Suitable for daily use after cleansing.
ASAP Clear Complexion Gel
Combines 17.5% AHA/BHA complex with licorice, tea tree, and calendula extract. Targeted for acne, clogged pores, and uneven skin tone.
ASAP Daily Exfoliating Facial Scrub
Mild scrub with 14% AHA complex and biodegradable beads. Combines chemical and physical exfoliation for thorough yet gentle cleansing.
Jan Marini Bioglycolic Face Lotion
Contains glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid in one product. A triple combination for skin renewal, pore cleansing, and evening out skin tone. Suitable for almost all skin types — including those with rosacea and pigmentation.
Comfort Zone Skin Regimen Lx Night Renewal Cream
Night cream with gluconolactone (PHA) and the Longevity Complex. Gently exfoliates while you sleep and revitalizes the skin. Ideal for sensitive skin that wants to exfoliate but cannot tolerate AHAs.
Frequently asked questions about exfoliation
How often should I exfoliate?
Start with twice a week and gradually build up to three times if needed. Daily exfoliation can be too much for some skin types, especially with higher concentrations of AHA or BHA.
Can I use AHA and BHA simultaneously?
Yes, there are products that combine both (such as Jan Marini Bioglycolic). If you use separate products, you can apply them on alternating evenings. Do not use both at the same time in the same routine if your skin is sensitive.
Can I exfoliate if I use retinol?
Yes, but do not use them on the same evening. Retinol already accelerates cell renewal, and adding an exfoliant can over-stress the skin. Alternate them: retinol on Monday and Wednesday, exfoliant on Friday, for example.
Is a physical scrub better or worse than a chemical exfoliant?
Chemical exfoliation is generally more even and gentler than a scrub with beads. Physical scrubs can cause micro-damage if they are too aggressive. A combination can work — such as the ASAP Daily Exfoliating Facial Scrub which combines AHA with gentle beads.
Do I need to use SPF if I use AHA?
Absolutely. AHAs make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation by thinning the top layer of skin. Daily SPF is mandatory when you have an AHA product in your routine.
Read also
Curious how AHA/BHA fits into your ASAP routine for acne? Read how ASAP helps with acne. Or discover what truly works for skin improvement. Do you want to know the correct order for incorporating exfoliants? Read everything about the correct order.
Free shipping
At Shopjemooi.nl, you benefit from free shipping in the Netherlands from €40 and in Belgium from €75. Unsure which exfoliant suits your skin? Feel free to contact us — we'd be happy to advise you.
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Conclusion
AHA, BHA, and PHA are three types of chemical exfoliants, each with its own place in skincare. AHAs work on the surface and help with dull skin and pigmentation. BHAs penetrate pores and are ideal for acne and oily skin. PHAs are the mildest option for sensitive skin. At Shopjemooi, you'll find a suitable product for every type — from Jan Marini's triple AHA/BHA formula to Comfort Zone's gentle PHA night cream. Start with a low concentration, build up slowly, and always use SPF during the day.
